Sunday, June 3, 2012

Where To Begin

Bottom line up front: the past four days have been the best of my entire life. Words simply cannot express the experience. The Cinque Terre in the Liguria Region of Italy is heaven on earth; paradise. It is five towns (Riomaggiore, Manarola, Corniglia, Vernazza, Monterosso) all in a line along a gorgeous coast with a trail connecting all of them. There is also a high mountain trail but more on that later. Each town is small, quaint, and incredibly amazing. Yes, there are tourists, but you truly feel like a guest and the people of the towns are so friendly that it feels like simply visiting a small town.



We (Myself, Christal, and Katherine) began in Riomaggiore on Thursday afternoon. Checked into our hostel then went down to the harbor. I decided to do some unplanned venturing and ended up running/hiking up the mountain to a beautiful monastery that looked over the town. I came back, and we walked down the Via D'ell Amore to watch an amazing sunset. Afterwards we went out with a friend named Adam we had met who was staying in the same room at the hostel. Day one, unforgettable.

Friday I woke up, checked out, and walked along the Via D'ell Amore to Manarola, where I had a slice of omelet and a cappucino. Good fuel for the long hike ahead. I started my venture and went up, up, up, up, up. There are 5 monasteries, each overlooking a respective town (they were used to spot pirates back in the day!). I got on the mountain trail that goes above all the towns and stops at the monasteries. I hardly saw anyone on the trails and for most of the hike I was above the clouds. Katherine and Christal were staying in Vernazza so I decided I would hunker down there and keep in touch with them. The descent into Vernazza was just... wow. It got progressively warmer and beautiful. I stopped at the church above the town for the view then continued into town. I got to Vernazza and called Christal; they were arriving just as I called! I helped them find their hotel and then we had some lunch. I went with them when they checked in and asked if the gentleman had any space (it was a man and his wife who rented out two floors of a house). He kindly obliged and pulled out a cot for me and made sure everything was perfect. We showered, chilled a little, then went out to dinner. I got spaghetti with seafood and it was the best spaghetti I've ever had. Katherine got Trofie with Pesto and I had to finish it for her :). Might I add that the Liguria region is the birthplace of pesto and foccacia bread. We then split a piece of tiramisu then went back to the balcony of our lodging and played cards while the sun set. Day two, unforgettable.

Saturday we all went out for a bite to eat and cappucino by the harbor. I then packed up and set off back up the hill to the church. I then took a different trail that led above Monterosso and to another church. I have walked many trails in my life but the 8b trail between Vernazza and Monterosso was the most absolutely perfect trail. Flat with incredible coastal views. I went to the next church where then the trail follows along the road until you get to right above Monterosso then it cuts back onto a single trail. Just when I thought it couldn't get better, you start going up and up and up. You eventually find yourself at an old tower on the point past Monterosso and then downhill a little bit to The Monastery of St. Antonio. Hands down, bar none, the best view I have ever had the pleasure of seeing. It beat everything in Rome and every overlook and vista I have ever visited. You can see all five towns, the sea, and the harbor and beach of Monterosso. I was awestruck. I descended into town and got some lunch. The place had a "tourist menu" with a 1st plate, 2nd plate, and drink for 13.50. I got trofie with pesto (I don't know how they make trofie but I bought a bag because it is incredibly good. They are short little twisted noodles designed specifically for pesto to stick), and mixed anchovies (a specialty). Eventually Katherine and Christal showed up via train and they had bought me a t-shirt and puzzle that I was planning to buy! They are too cool! We sat on the beach and I convinced Christal to hike up to St. Antonio. Katherine journaled on the beach and I ventured around town. At about 1615 I decided to take the coastal trail to Vernazza, then catch the train to Riomaggiore. The girls had a booking at a hostel outside of La Spezia so I decided to go back to the same place as the first night because Adam was there all weekend. The hike to Vernazza was tougher than I expected but I got there half as fast as the map told me I would! After jumping on the wrong train I eventually got to Riomaggiore. I checked into the hostel, got put in a better room than before, then met the girls at La Lampara where I had an delicious Frutti di Mare Pizza. It had clams, mussels, shrimp, calamari, and tomatoes. They got desserts and Christal's cheesecake was amazing. They had transport to their hostel picking them up at 8 so I walked them to it, bought some Trofie, then showered. It felt so good.

There was a Canadian couple in the room who were traveling Europe so I talked with them a little then went out to town. I ran into Adam and we got some gelato then went to the harbor and talked for a while. I went back to bed around 11 and then got up to watch the sunrise. It was pretty cloudy but so peaceful. I went back to bed because the girls were coming back to hang out at around 0830. I got and egg muffin, crepes, and a cappucino and then we did a good bit of shopping.

We said our goodbyes to the Cinque Terre at about 1200 as we boarded a train to La Spezia, which would then take us back to Rome. Again I say, this was hands down one of the best weekends of my life. I wish I could in some way describe to you this place but it would all be for naught. I will try to go into more detail if you ask me personally but it will still not do it justice. Everything was perfect. The hiking, the towns, the water, the food, the people. I was literally searching for something wrong with it and could find nothing. Nothing. I would go back and live there in a heart beat.

If you travel to Europe and do not include a few days in the Cinque Terre, you have failed and you have my pity. There is no place like it on earth.

Feel free to ask about it!

Love,




Dylan

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